Hidden Gem Japan: The Fascinating 1200 Faces of the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple

Nestled on the outskirts of Aarashiyama, Kyoto, the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple is a concealed gem that has certainly had its fair share of hardships in the past. This buddhist temple features a collection of 1200 whimsical statues, all with a different facial expression, which make for one truly captivating sight. 

The Rakan statues, which represent the disciples of the historical Buddha, are a fairly recent addition to the temple, whose story dates all the way back to the 8th century. But the unusual statues are not the only amazing thing about the temple. Its somewhat tragic history stands to witness how ruthless nature can be and how certain things are meant to stand the test of time (with a bit of human help).

Originally, the temple was not built in the far western hills of Aarashiyama, where it stands today. It was actually built in the Higashiyama area in the year 770. The temple was completely washed away when the nearby Kamo-gawa river flooded the banks. It was then reestablished in the early years of the Heian period (794-1192). Over time, it fell into a dilapidated state, with only three structures remaining: the Jizo Hall, the main hall, and the temple gate. In 1922, the temple was moved to its final destination (the Arashiyama neighbourhood in the western hills of Kyoto), where it stands today. However, the challenges were far from over. In the year 1950, disaster hit again when a major typhoon caused great damage to the remaining structures. Finally, a new priest was appointed to the temple in 1955, and it took him over 30 years to bring it to its present state. 

Priest Kocho Nishimura, who was a sculptor himself, renovated the temple and is the genius behind the temple’s current artistic expression. His idea was to let visitors (amateur sculptors) carve their own statues under his guidance. Since each statue was made by a different person, they all have a unique, humoristic expression - bizarre, serene, cute, scary, funny. Walking through the temple you’ll see one of these statues holding a walkman, or a tennis racket, or two of them having a beer together. You could spend hours exploring the grounds and still find new details that you missed before. A popular game amongst visitors is to find a face that most resembles yours, so make sure you look for one yourself when you visit. To date, the temple is run by Nishimura’s son and grandson, who continue to create art of their own.

Today, the quirky statues are all covered in moss, which surely adds to the charming and peaceful atmosphere of the place. It is a fun and fascinating little piece of history hidden from the rest of the world. If you plan to explore Kyoto in the near future (once we’re finally Covid free, of course), this temple is a must see. Because of its remote location, it is never too crowded, and with an entry fee of only 300 yen, it is definitely worth adding to your itinerary. The official website recommends taking a taxi as the best way to reach the temple, and the gates are open from 8a.m. - 4:45 p.m. For more information on how to get there, click here.

Author Bio: Emma Liu, Senior Content Creator at Writers Dash